Another day of castle seeking on Croatia’s breathtaking Istria Peninsula. Hum, Croatia is where we’re going. So far, the day had gone well, but on our way to the next castle, the route turned dangerous. We were traveling down what looked to be a single-lane, private dirt road when we passed houses where the residents looked at us as if to ask, “Are you lost?” We began to have our doubts about Google Maps, the one app that we always rely on when traveling. After leaving the dirt road, we were in a dense forest with no villages or signpost, and we were climbing a curving mountain road. We nearly turned off the road, but we continued on. We should have trusted Google Maps.
Then all of a sudden Hum appeared at the top of the hill. We were shocked to discover as we got closer to the entrance gate that, although the castle was our ultimate destination, we were actually going to the world’s smallest city in terms of population. We were a little concerned about that title—would it be a tourist trap?
But there was a castle, which was our original goal, so we could ignore the touristy side if needed. We had learned from our castle hunting treks that incredible castles could be found hiking through farmers’ fields, deep within thick forests, in the middle of a river, or on a sandy beach. The search is often as fun as the reward at the end.
This time, the little village full of charm enthralled us more than the castle alone, making the journey worthwhile. The breathtaking sights alone could have helped.
This time, the little village full of charm enthralled us more than the castle alone, making the journey worthwhile. The breathtaking sights alone could have helped.
Is that all there is to HumCroatia?
Reportedly the smallest town in the world, Hum (pronounced Hume) had thirty residents according to the 2011 census. Even though it isn’t stated in the Guinness World Book of Records, it appears to be the case. With elections, a government, and a mayor, the village functions as an entire city.
Though officially a settlement of the larger town of Buzet, it is situated in the middle of the Istrian Peninsula. There are just two streets in the 300 feet long by 90 feet broad metropolis.
There are twenty structures on those two streets. Perched on a hill at an elevation of more than a thousand feet, it offers breathtaking views of the deep forest and wide valley below.
Hum is mentioned in records dating back to the 12th century. One interesting fact about Hum is that, according to the 1921 census, every person in the town spoke Italian. How is that possible? It was because the majority of the Istrian region at the time was inhabited by Istrian Italians. Istria was taken over by Italy in 1920 and then returned to Croatia following World War 2. This gives the region a rich history with trilateral cultural roots in Slovenian, Italian, and Croatian.
The Story of Hum Croatia
Like many medieval cities, its existence is explained by a mythology. According to legend, certain stones were left over when the Giants built the settlements in the Mirna River valley. They created the tiny fortified city of Hum because they didn’t want to waste the few stones that were still there.
At one point, the entire medieval city was surrounded by walls, and every residence was constructed inside them. There is still much of that wall. The fact that no houses were constructed outside of this tiny hamlet is peculiar, but given its modest size, it was probably their greatest line of defense. The main gate has two doors and is decorated with a Giogoltic script on the handles and cooper door shields. In addition, there is a watchtower, a fortress, and two churches: the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which was constructed in 1802 in place of an earlier church, and St. Jerome, which dates back to the 12th century. Though modest, the churches are well worth a visit.
Enjoy the stunning frescos at St. Jerome. Its walls are decorated with some of the earliest specimens of medieval Croatian Glagolitic script. Hikers may enjoy the intriguing Giogolitic Alley, a 2-mile hiking trail that connects the villages of Hum and Roc. Numerous monumental stone statues honoring the historic Croatian script along the path. According to reports, the ancient alphabet was in use up until the last century, and each stone sculpture represented a letter of that alphabet.
This is a real city, how can that be?
Hum has a current administration, and the Day of Hum, which falls on June 11 of each year, is when elections are held. Today, the town’s men congregate at the City Lodge to mark votes on wooden sticks. Indeed, the custom of allowing only men to vote has been upheld by the men. A center for administration and public affairs is also located in the village.
Our Trip to Hum, Croatia
It was a beautiful day, rather warm for late October, when we went. We were among very few people because it was a weekday. Hum seemed to be all ours.
We anticipated that there wouldn’t be much to see or do in a town this tiny. It didn’t work out like that. The hill town of Roc can be reached by hiking up Giogolitic Alley, or you can just relax on one of the wooden benches on the edge of town and watch the sun set. Other attractions include the castle, museum, two churches, and charming cobblestone alleyways. Of course, there’s always going shopping and having a snack.
Hum consists of two streets with a number of fine stores, bars, a wine bar, and a restaurant. In the charming tiny stores that dot this town, you can try several local specialties for free. We tried a local champagne beer, which was recommended by one retailer. We sipped this amazing brew while she seated us at this charming small table outside, which overlooked the lovely valley and village. I adored the combination of champagne and beer; it was amazing.
That being said, Hum’s fame was not founded on champagne beer. Despite its modest size and remote location, this town is rich in customs and treasured goods, especially Humska Biska, an Istrian brandy brewed with herbs and mistletoe.
Handmade Istrian treats including truffles, cheese, olive oils, wine, honey, sausages, and a variety of flavored Rakijas are available in the shops as additional local specialties. Never pass up the opportunity to sample the truffles! It’s our particular favorite dish from this area.
Would you like to stay overnight in the world’s tiniest city?
We were surprised to see signs throughout town promoting a few tiny vacation properties. Some were in the historic buildings, while some were in the few contemporary buildings inside the city walls. The few lodging options in Hum seem to be either rooms or apartments inside of houses.
It would be interesting to find out the opinions of the few villagers in this area regarding the debate surrounding Air BnBs and similar matters. Their hospitality suggests that they take pleasure in having a guest or two stay the night.
